FISHING CRANKBAITS FOR LARGEMOUTH BASS

This has been a really tough summer for Bass fishing but knowing where to fish and what to throw can make the difference in the cast to catch ratio! For the most part, I've found that using a lure that can get down from 7 to 15 feet deep along the edge of weed beds will catch Bass! One of the best lures for this is a medium to deep running crank bait. Not only is the lure an important factor, so is the type of tackle being used as well as the type of line that is on your reel!. Here are my 5 best tips for selecting equipment for fishing crankbaits on weed edges:

1.)Using a crankbait rod that has a soft action tip that flexes when the fish hits allows the bass to suck the crankbait in when it hits. A soft action rod also allows the bait to bounce and deflect off the bottom and bounce off cover in a way
that makes fish bite it. And lastly, a soft rod keeps you from pulling the hooks out of the fish during the fight. A good crank bait rod should bend at least 1/3 of the way down the rod and have a soft feel. When using a wide wobbling crankbait on your rod, you should be able to see the rod tip actually vibrate and pulsate at
the same speed as the lure itself. Most companies make a specific model for crankbaits. Most pros will use a fiberglass or a graphite/fiberglass composite rod. It seems funny that the fiberglass rods are what I started out with so many years ago and the trend changed to graphite and boron and now things are reverting back to the glass rods again! Like they say,"What Goes Around Comes Around"!

2.)You need to use a line that transmits vibrations well. This means use either fluorocarbon line or a low stretch mono. I like to use TRILENE VANISH line which is a invisable (in the water) flurocarbon. I have found this to be a soft, small diameter line that holds up very well for me! I rarely use a line heavier that 12# test. You can go heavier to 14# or 17# fluorocarbon if you have big fish and real heavy weeds.

3.)Sometimes I take the split ring off my crankbaits and just use a snap lock to change baits. This lets me change baits faster and usually gives the baits better action. Do not use a snap swivel. The swivel is extra weight that hampers the movement of the crank bait.

4.)Most of the time a wide wobbling crankbait is better in warm water. Use a tight wobble in cold water. For fishing grass you should have three basic crankbaits....one that runs less than two foot deep, one that dives 4 to 6 feet deep and one that dives about 10+ feet deep. The baits you get should be very buoyant and made of balsa or plastic. The ideal crankbait around weeds, floats
very easily so that when you stop it in the weeds and it is stuck the bait has a chance to float up and away from the weeds before you continue the retrieve.

5.)A good weed crankbait will have a round bill or a coffin bill. A square bill is better for rocks and wood and will often pick up more weed than a round bill. You are always going to get stuck in the weeds but a round bill is easier to clear from the weeds when you fish it. Which ever style you use, use a stop and go retrieve and occasionally, give the rod tip a little jerk. These actions cause the crankbait to have a stutter effect which will cause many a Bass to hit!

Well that's the basic equipment considerations for cranking the weeds. Crank baits are a big favorite of mine! I've caught some very nice fish on them and I never seem to have enough crankers. I'll talk more on this subject at another time. Until the next time, Good Fishing!