In my photos, the small lake that I am fishing is where I grew up. This is a 12-15 acre lake located in the north western portion of Columbiana County. I have been associated with this small body of water all of my life! My parents bought a partial of land here in 1947 for $500. Dad built our home on the property in 1961. Dad started fishing here in the mid 1940's and fell in love with the lake and decided to become an associate. The lake has always been private, open only to it's members however, during the 1960's it was opened for pay to fish to the public.
If I had a $1.00 for each fish I've caught out of this lake, I'd be a very wealthy man today! I've seldom gone there without catching fish and some of my friends, that have been with me, have said that this is the best water they have ever fished!
It was primarily a Largemouth Bass lake when Dad started fishing it but it also held Bluegill, Crappie, Perch, Catfish and a few Suckers (in the early days).
The lake is approximately over 170 years old, having been constructed as the result of the old Sandy and Beaver canal system that was attempted between 1835 and 1850. A branch of said canal runs northwest and southeast of the lake and the lake ( I believe) was constructed as a reservoir for the canal.
I would have loved to have been around at that time to have witnessed the construction. The lake has changed so much in my life time due to sediment filling in the shorelines. There used to be some major drop offs along the edges but the mud and muck has taken those away!
There used to be abundant lily pad growth and not much weeds but today it's just the opposite! The pads used to be so thick that half of the lake was covered with them and it looked like you could walk on them! The membership has always been fighting a never ending battle against the vegetation problems and today with the older members, I think it is a lost cause!
The majority of the members don't fish and cann't see the importance of a good lake management program! There are basically too many fish in the lake (since there are no fish being removed) and the size of the Bass have decreased through the years as a result! A thriving fish population is obtained through a good harvesting and catch and release program! For instance, if large Bass are the goal then the population of average size fish needs to be thinned out. The state of Ohio's D.N.R. recommends that 10 Bass under the length of 10 inches be removed per acre of fishing water plus one Bass of 15 inches every year. Then the primary food source, let's say Bluegill, should be reduced at the rate of 300 - 500 bluegill over the 6 inch size, per acre per year! This will allow the smaller Bluegill to be more readily available to be food fish for the Bass, allowing them to grow larger! That's a lot of fish for a 12 acre lake, especially when no one fishes the water!
Having said all the negative "stuff" about the lake, there is not a day that goes by that I don't want to be on that water! My buddy and I still manage to have a real good time and the Bass fishing is still good even if the fish are on the small side! I'm just as guilty for not taking fish but at the age of 60, I am just too lazy to clean them! We keep saying, "maybe today we will bring some home to eat", but never do!
Fall Crappie
Me with a nice Black Crappie and Cigar
Late Summer Crappie
Me with a nice White crappie and Cigar
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Friday, October 15, 2010
THE UNDERSTANDING AND USAGE OF SOLUNAR TABLES
The term "SOLUNAR" is the combination of the words "SOLAR" and "LUNAR" and the study of "SOLUNAR" deals with the effects on fish and wildlife that occur during different times of the day caused by the combined activities of the sun and the moon.
The study of the sun and moon and how their movements effect fish and wildlife has been on going for hundreds of years. The "NATIVE AMERICANS" depended on the harvest of fish and game for their survival and learned how important the solar and lunar influences were to the success of an adequate harvest of game.
It is a know fact that wildlife are more active during certain peaks of the solar and lunar movements and at different times of the day and night, most noticeably at dawn and dusk.
In 1926, John Alden Knight started research into the solunar activities and their effect on wildlife. His research resulted in a publication of tables which showed periods of "Major" and "Minor" activities. During Knight's study, data was analyzed pertaining to over 200 record catches of fish. The analysis showed that 90% of the catches were made under the effect of the "NEW MOON" and while in a solunar period.
More studies were done at Northwestern University, by Dr. Frank A Brown, using live oysters that he had brought to his lab in Chicago, Illinois. Oysters open their shells at each "High Tide" and tides are controled by lunar influence. Dr. Brown discovered that the oysters opened their shells corresponding to the times that the moon was directly "overhead" and "underfoot" for Chicago.
Solunar tables have been in use since 1936. These tables show the time frame when "Major" and "Minor" periods of solar and lunar activities occur and gives windows into periods of significant increase in wildlife activities.
The terms "MAJOR" and "MINOR" are related to the position of the moon. The Majors occur when the moon is directly overhead and directly underfoot (on the opposite side of the earth). The Minors are when the moon is half way between the overhead and underfoot positions. There are two Majors and two Minors in every 24 hour period. These periods are predicted to be when fish and wildlife are most active.
If possible, try to schedule your fishing and hunting periods within the major and minor periods of the day or night for a greater success of your outting.
The facts and figures of this article were published through the Weather Channel.
The study of the sun and moon and how their movements effect fish and wildlife has been on going for hundreds of years. The "NATIVE AMERICANS" depended on the harvest of fish and game for their survival and learned how important the solar and lunar influences were to the success of an adequate harvest of game.
It is a know fact that wildlife are more active during certain peaks of the solar and lunar movements and at different times of the day and night, most noticeably at dawn and dusk.
In 1926, John Alden Knight started research into the solunar activities and their effect on wildlife. His research resulted in a publication of tables which showed periods of "Major" and "Minor" activities. During Knight's study, data was analyzed pertaining to over 200 record catches of fish. The analysis showed that 90% of the catches were made under the effect of the "NEW MOON" and while in a solunar period.
More studies were done at Northwestern University, by Dr. Frank A Brown, using live oysters that he had brought to his lab in Chicago, Illinois. Oysters open their shells at each "High Tide" and tides are controled by lunar influence. Dr. Brown discovered that the oysters opened their shells corresponding to the times that the moon was directly "overhead" and "underfoot" for Chicago.
Solunar tables have been in use since 1936. These tables show the time frame when "Major" and "Minor" periods of solar and lunar activities occur and gives windows into periods of significant increase in wildlife activities.
The terms "MAJOR" and "MINOR" are related to the position of the moon. The Majors occur when the moon is directly overhead and directly underfoot (on the opposite side of the earth). The Minors are when the moon is half way between the overhead and underfoot positions. There are two Majors and two Minors in every 24 hour period. These periods are predicted to be when fish and wildlife are most active.
If possible, try to schedule your fishing and hunting periods within the major and minor periods of the day or night for a greater success of your outting.
The facts and figures of this article were published through the Weather Channel.
Monday, October 11, 2010
PASSED RESOLUTION ON LEAD AMMUNITION AND FISHING TACKLE
Back in September, I posted an article on the proposed ban of lead in fishing tackle and ammunition. Here is the lastest adopted resolution from the Association of Fish and Wildlife Agency:
RESOLUTION #1-2010
LEAD AMMUNITION AND FISHING TACKLE
WHEREAS, lead is used for ammunition and fishing tackle due to its unique properties
and ease and cost of manufacture; and
WHEREAS, lead from ammunition and fishing tackle under certain circumstances of
exposure may pose health risks to wildlife; and
WHEREAS, state fish and wildlife agencies have primary trust responsibilities for most
fish and wildlife resources in this country; and
WHEREAS, the Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies, which represents the collective
perspectives of the state fish and wildlife agencies, played a key leadership role in
resolution of the debate over regulation of lead shot for waterfowl hunting in the 1970s
and ‘80s; and
WHEREAS, state fish and wildlife agencies have been proactive in implementing
regulations, educational initiatives, and other efforts to reduce lead exposure to fish and
wildlife in cases where population‐level impacts have been documented;
NOW, THEREFORE, BE IT RESOLVED that the Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies
adopt the following principles regarding future regulation of lead ammunition and lead
fishing tackle:
1. Future regulation of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle is best addressed by the
individual states, rather than federal agencies.
2. State fish and wildlife agencies should proactively address issues associated with
wildlife population health, and cooperate with the respective state health agencies
where human health issues have been substantiated, related to lead ammunition and
lead fishing tackle.
3. Decisions related to future regulation of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle
should be based on the best available science related to wildlife population health.
4. Effective human dimensions strategies should be developed to ensure good
communication and understanding by hunters, anglers, and shooting sports interests.
5. Collaboration with industry, conservation organizations, hunting, angling, and
shooting sports interests is essential, and AFWA and the states should continue to lead
efforts to bring this about.
6. State agencies should focus regulation efforts where population‐level impacts to
wildlife are substantiated.
7. Public education and voluntary programs may be used where appropriate in lieu of
regulation.
8. Any new regulations that restrict use of lead ammunition or lead fishing tackle should
include multi‐year phase‐in periods to allow industry, retailers, and hunters and anglers
necessary time to transition and phase‐in non‐lead substitutes.
9. State fish and wildlife agencies should lead efforts to develop the best science, and
AFWA should provide this information to members for their use in bringing hunters,
anglers and various interests together to determine the need for and nature of any
needed management approaches to use of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle.
Resolution passed September 29, 2010.
RESOLUTION #1-2010
LEAD AMMUNITION AND FISHING TACKLE
WHEREAS, lead is used for ammunition and fishing tackle due to its unique properties
and ease and cost of manufacture; and
WHEREAS, lead from ammunition and fishing tackle under certain circumstances of
exposure may pose health risks to wildlife; and
WHEREAS, state fish and wildlife agencies have primary trust responsibilities for most
fish and wildlife resources in this country; and
WHEREAS, the Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies, which represents the collective
perspectives of the state fish and wildlife agencies, played a key leadership role in
resolution of the debate over regulation of lead shot for waterfowl hunting in the 1970s
and ‘80s; and
WHEREAS, state fish and wildlife agencies have been proactive in implementing
regulations, educational initiatives, and other efforts to reduce lead exposure to fish and
wildlife in cases where population‐level impacts have been documented;
NOW, THEREFORE, BE IT RESOLVED that the Association of Fish and Wildlife Agencies
adopt the following principles regarding future regulation of lead ammunition and lead
fishing tackle:
1. Future regulation of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle is best addressed by the
individual states, rather than federal agencies.
2. State fish and wildlife agencies should proactively address issues associated with
wildlife population health, and cooperate with the respective state health agencies
where human health issues have been substantiated, related to lead ammunition and
lead fishing tackle.
3. Decisions related to future regulation of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle
should be based on the best available science related to wildlife population health.
4. Effective human dimensions strategies should be developed to ensure good
communication and understanding by hunters, anglers, and shooting sports interests.
5. Collaboration with industry, conservation organizations, hunting, angling, and
shooting sports interests is essential, and AFWA and the states should continue to lead
efforts to bring this about.
6. State agencies should focus regulation efforts where population‐level impacts to
wildlife are substantiated.
7. Public education and voluntary programs may be used where appropriate in lieu of
regulation.
8. Any new regulations that restrict use of lead ammunition or lead fishing tackle should
include multi‐year phase‐in periods to allow industry, retailers, and hunters and anglers
necessary time to transition and phase‐in non‐lead substitutes.
9. State fish and wildlife agencies should lead efforts to develop the best science, and
AFWA should provide this information to members for their use in bringing hunters,
anglers and various interests together to determine the need for and nature of any
needed management approaches to use of lead ammunition and lead fishing tackle.
Resolution passed September 29, 2010.
Monday, October 4, 2010
VARIOUS KNOTS TO KNOW FOR GREATER SUCCESS ON THE WATER
The Palomar Knot is a general-purpose connection used in joining fishing line to swivels, snaps, hooks and artificial lures. It is my primary knot to use when joining line to lure. It is a fast and easy knot to tie and I have never had it fail! The double wrap of line through the eyelet provided a protective cushion for added knot strength.
1. Double the line and form a loop three to four inches long. Pass the end of the loop through hook's eye.
2. Holding the standing line between thumb and finger, grasp loop with free hand and form a simple overhand knot.
3.Pass hook through loop and draw line while guiding over the top of the eyelet.
4. Pull tag end of line to tighten knot snugly and trim tag end to about 1/4".
The Trilene Knot is a strong and dependable that make a reliable connection that resists slippage and premature failures. This knot can be used in joining line to swivels, snaps, hooks and lures. The knots unique double wrap design and ease of tying, consistantly yields a strong and dependable connection.
1. Run the end of the line through the eye of the hook or lure and double back through the eye again.
2. Loop the end of the line around the standing part of the line 5 or 6 times then thread the end between the eye and the coils of the line.
3. Tighten the knot with a steady, even motion without hesitation then trim the excess tag end just above the knot.
The Blood Knot is for tying different size lines together .
1. Place the two lines on top of each other pointing each in opposite directions. Wrap the lighter of the two around the heavier 5 times then bring that end through the area where the to lines meet.
2. Wrap the heavier line around the lighter line 4 times and pass the end through the opening now created in them. Make sure to pass the lines through the opening are running in opposite directions.
3. Wet the line and start pulling the running lines away from each other slowly and then make a quick jerk to snug up the lines.
4. Trim each end close so there is nothing to cause the line to hang up on or catch on weeds.
The Berkley Braid Knot is a special knot that has been extensively tested by Berkley's R&D people and has proven to be one of the best knots to use with braided lines.
1. Run double loop through the eye of the hook or lure.
2. Loop around the line 8 times then thread the loop back through the hole created at the eye and the coils.
3. Tighten knot with a steady, even motion without hesitation. Trim the double loop and the end of the braided line close to the knot.
The Arbor Knot provides a quick and easy connection for attaching new line to your reel spool.
1. Pass the line around the spool.
2. Tie an overhand knot around the standing line then a second overhand knot in the tag end of the line.
3. Pull tight and nip off the excess. Snug down the fisrt knot onto the reel spool.
It is extremely important to learn to tie good knots so find a piece of rope or string and practice so you will be able to use these when the time is needed!
1. Double the line and form a loop three to four inches long. Pass the end of the loop through hook's eye.
2. Holding the standing line between thumb and finger, grasp loop with free hand and form a simple overhand knot.
3.Pass hook through loop and draw line while guiding over the top of the eyelet.
4. Pull tag end of line to tighten knot snugly and trim tag end to about 1/4".
The Trilene Knot is a strong and dependable that make a reliable connection that resists slippage and premature failures. This knot can be used in joining line to swivels, snaps, hooks and lures. The knots unique double wrap design and ease of tying, consistantly yields a strong and dependable connection.
1. Run the end of the line through the eye of the hook or lure and double back through the eye again.
2. Loop the end of the line around the standing part of the line 5 or 6 times then thread the end between the eye and the coils of the line.
3. Tighten the knot with a steady, even motion without hesitation then trim the excess tag end just above the knot.
The Blood Knot is for tying different size lines together .
1. Place the two lines on top of each other pointing each in opposite directions. Wrap the lighter of the two around the heavier 5 times then bring that end through the area where the to lines meet.
2. Wrap the heavier line around the lighter line 4 times and pass the end through the opening now created in them. Make sure to pass the lines through the opening are running in opposite directions.
3. Wet the line and start pulling the running lines away from each other slowly and then make a quick jerk to snug up the lines.
4. Trim each end close so there is nothing to cause the line to hang up on or catch on weeds.
The Berkley Braid Knot is a special knot that has been extensively tested by Berkley's R&D people and has proven to be one of the best knots to use with braided lines.
1. Run double loop through the eye of the hook or lure.
2. Loop around the line 8 times then thread the loop back through the hole created at the eye and the coils.
3. Tighten knot with a steady, even motion without hesitation. Trim the double loop and the end of the braided line close to the knot.
The Arbor Knot provides a quick and easy connection for attaching new line to your reel spool.
1. Pass the line around the spool.
2. Tie an overhand knot around the standing line then a second overhand knot in the tag end of the line.
3. Pull tight and nip off the excess. Snug down the fisrt knot onto the reel spool.
It is extremely important to learn to tie good knots so find a piece of rope or string and practice so you will be able to use these when the time is needed!
Sunday, October 3, 2010
COOLER WEATHER HAS ARRIVED
Today is Sunday, October the 3rd. It has been a cool weekend with todays temperature in the low 50's. We have picked up quite a bit of rain in the last 24 hours and after a very hot and dry summer, it is needed!
The water level of the small lake that my fishing partner and I fish has dropped to the point that makes it extremely difficult to get the boat in and out! This is nothing new for this lake. When i was a kid, we trapped muskrats in season and the lake was always low enough that you could walk around the lake on the shoreline that would be a foot under water during the spring.
We went fishing on Friday, Oct.1st and caught several Bass, Bluegill and a couple of Crappie. The fish seemed to be holding close to the deeper weed line and using jerk baits, we did quite well! All total we must have caught a couple of dozen Bass. They weren't large fish but certainly were fun to catch!
It won't be long before the really cold weather will put an end to our fall fishing! I used to ice fish but had to wait until mid January before the ice was safe to go out on! I generally used these few months in the hunt for rabbits. I no longer am physically able to go hunting so I usually spend my winter months in doors thinking about the way things used to be!
I started this blog site, mainly for my own entertainment and I have enjoyed it! I hope to keep writing and expanding the scope of this blog into a more general web site such as an online magazine. My hopes are to do some traveling next year, around the state of Ohio and report on the fishing conditions of various lakes plus give an insite of how to catch the fish at each location, the best way to get there and where to stay after you arrive. We might even travel out of state and try some neighboring waters.
I only wish I would have started this sooner but who's to say I might not have been ready to take on the challenge before this! I would appreciate any feed back, you as a reader, are able to give! My next upgrade I hope to add a forum for your suggestions! I will continue to have new articles all winter long, so stay with me!
The water level of the small lake that my fishing partner and I fish has dropped to the point that makes it extremely difficult to get the boat in and out! This is nothing new for this lake. When i was a kid, we trapped muskrats in season and the lake was always low enough that you could walk around the lake on the shoreline that would be a foot under water during the spring.
We went fishing on Friday, Oct.1st and caught several Bass, Bluegill and a couple of Crappie. The fish seemed to be holding close to the deeper weed line and using jerk baits, we did quite well! All total we must have caught a couple of dozen Bass. They weren't large fish but certainly were fun to catch!
It won't be long before the really cold weather will put an end to our fall fishing! I used to ice fish but had to wait until mid January before the ice was safe to go out on! I generally used these few months in the hunt for rabbits. I no longer am physically able to go hunting so I usually spend my winter months in doors thinking about the way things used to be!
I started this blog site, mainly for my own entertainment and I have enjoyed it! I hope to keep writing and expanding the scope of this blog into a more general web site such as an online magazine. My hopes are to do some traveling next year, around the state of Ohio and report on the fishing conditions of various lakes plus give an insite of how to catch the fish at each location, the best way to get there and where to stay after you arrive. We might even travel out of state and try some neighboring waters.
I only wish I would have started this sooner but who's to say I might not have been ready to take on the challenge before this! I would appreciate any feed back, you as a reader, are able to give! My next upgrade I hope to add a forum for your suggestions! I will continue to have new articles all winter long, so stay with me!
Thursday, September 30, 2010
TAKING CARE OF YOUR FISH AFTER THEY ARE CAUGHT
In the last segment I talked about the importance of maintaining your live well. Now, I want to talk about the physical handling of your fish. Fish are sensitive creatures and great care should be practiced while handling them! When you catch a fish, the first thing to do before handling the fish is to wet your hands. The fish have a protective coating or "slime" on their scales and skin to aid in fighting infections and deseases. By wetting your hands, this will help in keeping this slime from being removed! Care must be taken with lifting the fish. A fish that is too large to be properly supported in one hand, if held horizontially, needs to be supported at the tail or stomach area. If held vertically, holding by the lower jaw such as a Bass is an acceptable method. You can break the jaw of a fish if the body is not supported! When releasing the fish, just don't "THROW" it back in. Gently lower it back to the water and then release it. If the fish put up a stuggle before landing, take the time to hold the fish in the water and gently work it back and forth to help it recover it's strength and breathing! The fish should swim out of your hand(s) when ready to go!
If you happen to hook a fish deep in the mouth, use extreme caution in removing the hooks. The area around the gills is a super sensitive area and will bleed very easy. If you cann't get the hook out, it is better to cut the hook or the line before releasing the fish. The hook will disolve in a short time with little damage done to the fish! If all else fails, this should be a fish for the frying pan!
Careful handling of fish and a good release will help insure a better fishing experience in the future!
If you happen to hook a fish deep in the mouth, use extreme caution in removing the hooks. The area around the gills is a super sensitive area and will bleed very easy. If you cann't get the hook out, it is better to cut the hook or the line before releasing the fish. The hook will disolve in a short time with little damage done to the fish! If all else fails, this should be a fish for the frying pan!
Careful handling of fish and a good release will help insure a better fishing experience in the future!
TAKING CARE OF YOUR FISH AFTER THEY ARE CAUGHT
I am a strong believer in "CATCH & RELEASE" of your fish. This does not mean that you cann't take some home for the table but use common sense and limit your take home amount! Releasing larger fish will help to establish a good population of larger fish in the future! Now, having said all of that, there will be times when fish will be kept in a live well for a weight-in during a tournament or until the end of your day! To ensure the health of your fish so they can be released, after you win the big prize, takes some care and planning before you catch a fish.
The first thing to know is the capacity of your live well. This can be determined (if you do not already know) by filling your well with water to full capacity, then using a measuring device, measure the depth of the water in inches, then the width of your live well, then the length of the well. You then want to convert the inch measurement to feet by dividing each measurment by 12. when you have the three measurements converted, multiply them together then multiply this number by the constant of 7.5, this will equal the capacity in gallons of your live well.
There are additives for the live wells to help protect the fish. Three of which are produced by SURE LIFE LABORATORIES. These are "CATCH AND RELEASE", "PLEASE RELEASE ME" and "FORM". More information on these products can be found by going to their web site at www.surelife.com and can be purchased through BASS PRO SHOPS.
DOUG HANNON, A.K.A. "THE BASS PROFESSOR", recommends using HYDROGEN PEROXIDE to increase the oxygen content of the water in the well. Hydrogen peroxide has similar chemical make up as water only 1 part more of oxygen then water. You only want to add 1 ounce of hydrogen peroxide to 3 gallons of water again, you must know the capacity of your live well!
The water temperature of the well should never exceed 65 degrees and needs to be checked on a regular basis. You can add ice to bring the temperature down but be aware that most tap water will contain Chloride which will kill the fish! The "CATCH AND RELEASE" product mentioned above will absorb the chloride there by not harming the fish! Another idea is to take water from the source you will be fishing, and freeze it in small plastic water bottles or ice cube trays. This way you will illiminate any chloride from getting into the well! More to follow!
The first thing to know is the capacity of your live well. This can be determined (if you do not already know) by filling your well with water to full capacity, then using a measuring device, measure the depth of the water in inches, then the width of your live well, then the length of the well. You then want to convert the inch measurement to feet by dividing each measurment by 12. when you have the three measurements converted, multiply them together then multiply this number by the constant of 7.5, this will equal the capacity in gallons of your live well.
There are additives for the live wells to help protect the fish. Three of which are produced by SURE LIFE LABORATORIES. These are "CATCH AND RELEASE", "PLEASE RELEASE ME" and "FORM". More information on these products can be found by going to their web site at www.surelife.com and can be purchased through BASS PRO SHOPS.
DOUG HANNON, A.K.A. "THE BASS PROFESSOR", recommends using HYDROGEN PEROXIDE to increase the oxygen content of the water in the well. Hydrogen peroxide has similar chemical make up as water only 1 part more of oxygen then water. You only want to add 1 ounce of hydrogen peroxide to 3 gallons of water again, you must know the capacity of your live well!
The water temperature of the well should never exceed 65 degrees and needs to be checked on a regular basis. You can add ice to bring the temperature down but be aware that most tap water will contain Chloride which will kill the fish! The "CATCH AND RELEASE" product mentioned above will absorb the chloride there by not harming the fish! Another idea is to take water from the source you will be fishing, and freeze it in small plastic water bottles or ice cube trays. This way you will illiminate any chloride from getting into the well! More to follow!
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